So I’m thinking about selling some of my more valuable cards that are in LP condition on eBay since I haven’t had much luck with them on other channels. Obviously besides taking a butt load of high quality pics, which I plan to do, how do you protect yourself from those buyers that are difficult to deal with?
Should I get them graded with CGC just to have their condition more verifiable? I don’t want to wait until 2030 for them to come back in a PSA bulk sub order. Most of these cards are WOTC first editions holos and some e-reader holos, so nothing crazy valuable (1st ed neo rev holo ho oh and stormfront zard are the most valuable of the bunch).
I’ve sold thousands (if not tens of thousands) of cards on eBay over the past decade. Never had a single return request or ‘item not as described’ dispute. Not one condition complaint over the course of 12 years. But I’m very anal about condition. Even former PSA 8s that I cracked out I’ve sold on eBay as EX/NM. As long as you grade conservatively and attach accurate photos that exhibit all significant flaws, you’ll have zero issues. It’s generally easier to sell graded cards – they just sell more quickly. But it’s totally safe to sell raw cards. Don’t worry about it at all.
I’ve only ever sold graded, which is easy as a front and back photo. I’m usually stricter with my grading scale too, especially compared to TCGPlayer, but I just want to make sure I try to get quality photos. Photography is not a strong suit of mine lol
100% what @zorloth , said. I would say clear, well-lit photos are the most important thing, then appropriate condition. If you’re very worried about those buyers just include a condition disclaimer in the description. From my personal experience the condition label only really helps for viewing purposes scrolling through ebay. Most serious buyers are doing a rough estimate on condition in their minds from the photos anyway.
I mainly buy raw cards on Ebay, and great photos go a long way! The purchases I’m most confident about have a clear front and back image, images of the corners, (mainly the back of the card), and a “glare” picture showing any holo scratches. When I sell raw cards, I am harsh on condition, letting the buyer determine their perceived condition from the photos I provide. There are many cards labeled “LP” that could easily be considered NM by others.
I would never open a dispute about a card that is in a slightly different condition than the photos. There is still a lot you cannot determine since you cannot look at the card in person. The only time I’d ever open a claim if a “NM” card arrives in Heavily Played condition with lots of creases and whitening.
1.) Take very clear front and back photos. If the card is a holo, make sure to also take a photo of the holo from a different angle to show any potential scratches. If the card has any damage (bends, creases, etc.), be sure to take a photo of the issues.
2.) Make sure the photos are on a dark background. Black is preferable, but dark blue, brown and any darker color works well. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve seen sellers take photos of raw cards on a white background, and it makes it nearly impossible to see if there is any whitening on the back of the card.
3.) Never list cards as “mint,” because that leaves things far too open to interpretation. Even if you have a gem-mint card, list it as “near mint” to cover yourself.
4.) This goes back to No. 3, but you are always better off “underestimating” the condition of your cards. For example, if you have a card that looks like a PSA 7 (which is technically near mint), list it as “excellent,” or, at most, “excellent to near-mint.” You would rather the buyer be pleasantly surprised than disappointed.
5.) Put clear condition qualifiers in your item description so the buyer knows what to expect. Let them know what you are deeming a near-mint card, an excellent card, etc.
As long as you do these things, you should never have a problem. Don’t worry: selling raw cards is not nearly as tedious as it seems.
Listen to @zorloth, he knows what he’s doing. This is how it’s done. Never had a single return or partial refund doled out. Because high quality pictures and conservative grade. People just don’t want to feel like they were deceived or overpaid.
Another option like you mentioned is to send the cards to CGC just to make them easier to sell (assuming they are more than a few dollars). Grading will make them more liquid and you will probably make back the grading fee on the increased value that is associated with a card being encapsulated. Plus the chance of encountering picky buyers goes down because they will know exactly what condition card they are getting with subgrades to justify the grade.