So, I went through my collection and made screenshots of all the cards I could find that are gradeable and might be worth something. Which of those, provided they’d return as a PSA 8 or 9, with a small possibility of 10, would definitely be worth grading? I’m planning on sending my first batch of 11 cards. I’m looking only for profit. Thanks a lot in advance!
The backs count alot for gradeability.There are sme really nice cards there aswell ha, and if they get a 9 + itl be nice money…profit…depends on cost of the lot. If the mcdonalds promos, shinings, popular pokemon…like tyranitar, plus the golem masaki are in decent shape id send thos off for sure(i havent looked at all cards but the minter the cards the better, thats the starting point plus pulling out the rare desirable cards like shinings, certain pokemon, japanese limited promos and so on)
old wotc holo cards, 1st editions…you have alot of very nice cards…but condition is key really. and the backs aswell. is best to have a perfect front and the back have the signs of whitening than other way around imo. I would look at each card front and back…for scratches whitening etc and cross check with psa’s grading system on their website. Also you can ebay and other site check for cards in 8 9 10 of the ones you have.
My plan was to just ask the experts here for cards from my collection that would be worth the most to grade and then look at their quality closer afterwards. Most of my cards should at least be PSA 8-9 anyway.
So uh, you might want to try to narrow it down a bit yourself…That is a ton of pictures/options and with no back pictures or pretty much any knowledge on your end of grading standards, this is essentially a needle in a haystack.
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Do we get some of the profit for doing the work for you?
But in all seriousness, the time, effort and monetary investment is up to you. It’s pretty simple to search ebay for completed/ sold listings for PSA versions of most if not all those cards. Crystals, Gold Stars, Secret Rares, eSeries holos and EXs can potentially have the best returns.
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I’m not looking for you to grade my cards or give me a pre-assessment. I’ll do that myself. All I want to know is if there’s any cards catching your eye that are worth grading if they get a 8 or higher. (Consider: Card Value, shipping cost, and end-worth - Maybe even how hard it is to sell)
Also, I’ve already narrowed it down. I only took pictures of card I figured might be worth something. I’ve easily 1000s of cards. I figured it’s much quicker and more efficient to have someone from here look over it and tell me if there’s any outliers that they know of.
T be honest…alot of those cards are really nice and if they do grade well can be nice money(dependant on what you paid) grading costs what…7 dolla? go on ebay and look up some of the cards you think …take into account price paid, postage, grading costs say…30$…the card sells for 40$, its not worth it imo because after fees and postage you will be left with possible minimal to no profit. thats the best way 
old 1st editions, in nm+ shinings, japanese promos etc are good to send in.again
the older, the rarer, the minter, the better! @smpratte
research the cards, get to know psa’s grading system. and never send off expecting a 10 
There are too many cards, and too many good cards to pick out a couple…plus no back pictures. I would send the shinings, crystals,masaki promo cards, mcdonalds, any wotc holo and 1st editions in nm+…but too manyy to pick tbh.I am not a grader or know alot about it but just a quick scan i know a few stand out cards.(dependant on condition)
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Are you intending to grade alot in total over the next few months…year etc? maybe pick out what you know is worth sending and is in a condition you are happy with…and look into the others while you wait for that return? and as you go you can look at grades that come back(predict before sending) then youll learn as you go throught the year…what psa grade like.
There are a bunch that regardless of condition…I would send anyway 
I’m only planning on sending 11 for now. Budget to send much more is not there right now. Selling them fast after they’re graded would be nice, too. And, I tried to look for a bunch of those cards on eBay, but I just can’t find some of them to compare accurately. Maybe it’s because I’m using the German eBay?
Which ones would you send regardless of condition out of curiosity?
You’ll have to do it eventually just go through and check prices on eBay send the ten most expensive in.
Ill give a full reply after my badminton game 
but the reverse charizard, gold star cards, shinings the grand party.
Based on what you have said, it sound slike the first 11 cards need to yield the most profit…ideally. so maybe that is your starting point for the 11? best condition cards that yield the most potential profit. and go from there. ill be back in 3 hours
Yes, looking for the most bang for my bucks (grading process costs)
And btw, the reverse Charizard is a Jumbo Card - are they gradeable? Or even worth grading?
You should really use ebay.com if you want to see the prices, otherwise it’s near impossible, prices in Europe may end up higher though due to import costs, but it’s not always the case that people are willing to pay more for that.
And as for the cards that you’ve shown, go off their rarity, become more knowledgeable with the card series that exist and based on the conditions that you’ve shown I would say that all are eligible to send in, but that’s all I can say without seeing the back condition.
I’m not worried about whether or not their eligible to send in. I’m worried about getting the most out of the money I’m going to spend to send them in. All of the cards are gonna be 8-9, as they all have almost absolutely no flaws. They’ve been unpacked back when the packs released, sleeved, put into the binder, and never been touched since then.
You would want to get 10’s, but seeing that since you come from them having very low value (as you don’t really have a “buy price” anymore on them) an 8/9 would also work depending on the card. Never having touched them since they’ve been put in a binder does not automatically mean that won’t be damaged though, it can be simply from the weight of the cards on top of them, or if you’ve opened the binder a lot there will also be damage.
Next to that, I really would advice you to get a feeling for the value of the cards, reading up on all series (scanning for the rare cards) and then checking on ebay.com what they go for helps wonders, also be sure to check on the sold listings tab and not on the tab with cards for sale.
“but seeing that since you come from them having very low value (as you don’t really have a “buy price” anymore on them)” → What do you mean?
And how would I learn what cards are worth a lot? I’d have to look through every single card that ever existed? I really don’t know where to start. In fact, I’d say, if I got more answers helping me pick out worthwhile cards, that’d already be a helpful start.
Yes, like everyone. IMO if you want to make money, why do you think others are required to do all your work? You have hundreds of cards pictured. Ebay sold listings are the best bet (type in the name and either the set or card number)8-9s depending will either increase the value or keep it the same as raw. Crystals, shinings, 1st edition WOTC are always the better bets as previously mentioned. I could see a point in arguing to grade all of those cards, as many others could as well.
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When I buy an ungraded card for a fixed price then I need to sell it at a PSA 9 at least (in most cases, bar extremely rare cards) to make a profit. You already have the cards and bought(?) them a very long time ago, so that buy price is relevant to you, hence you can afford to take a PSA 8 here and there.